Buy Tobacco Leaf Online | Whole Leaf Tobacco

Building this kiln: @PhillyD

Knucklehead

Moderator
Founding Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2012
Messages
12,677
Points
113
Location
NE Alabama
Nice box kiln. You will need a vent for flue curing. A fan will give even temp and humidity through the chamber. I used a bathroom exhaust fan because they are designed for moist environments. I control the speed with a rotary variable speed control switch designed for ceiling fans. Light dimmer switches are not designed to handle fan loads and could be a hazard.
 

deluxestogie

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
25,606
Points
113
Location
near Blacksburg, VA
So long as the heat pad is on a separate, digital temp controller, that should work. You will also need a moisture source inside the kiln, unless you kiln leaf that is sealed into their containers.

My kiln has no separate vent. When I use it for flue-curing, I leave the door closure slightly cracked during yellowing and leaf wilt, then close it up tight for the remainder of each run. During those early two or three days of a flue-cure run, you can always peek into the chamber, to see what's happening. Once it is past leaf wilt, you cannot open it to look, even briefly, without spoiling the leaf cure.

Bob
 

PhillyD

Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2022
Messages
7
Points
3
Location
Georgia
I am going to try a pan of water near the heating pad. The humidifier I have is small but even on low it really kicks out some moisture. May be too much and cause condensation. I am going to have to play around with it. Excited to dive into making my own smoke.
 

PhillyD

Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2022
Messages
7
Points
3
Location
Georgia
Nice box kiln. You will need a vent for flue curing. A fan will give even temp and humidity through the chamber. I used a bathroom exhaust fan because they are designed for moist environments. I control the speed with a rotary variable speed control switch designed for ceiling fans. Light dimmer switches are not designed to handle fan loads and could be a hazard.
Thanks. I have a 4 inch ocilating fan that should do the trick.
 

Radagast

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2020
Messages
633
Points
93
Location
Canada
"Once it is past leaf wilt, you cannot open it to look, even briefly, without spoiling the leaf cure."

I peek every time, I had no idea it was a no-no.. It does lower the temp at least a good 10° for a few minutes, what will the resulting effects on the leaf be at the end?
 

BrotherJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2022
Messages
65
Points
33
Location
Georgia, US
@PhillyD Hey, Georgia-boi!

You've got a good box. I'm seeing what looks like a lot of sheet rock. That won't be exposed to the inside, will it? Are you planning on insulating it further? Do you have some kind of heat sink that you can attach to the heat pad so you can get the heat into the air more quickly? (Welcome to the forum, by the way.) I'm not nit-picking; just trying to be helpful. ;)
 

PhillyD

Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2022
Messages
7
Points
3
Location
Georgia
It is exposed on the inside. Just using what I had on hand. I need to get some foam board to insulate it better. I have set the heating pad on a doubled up reflective mat that came with a seed germination heating pad. The pad is only 4x5 so it's on the small side. Not sure it will be able to get it hot enough at my current level of insulation. Thanks for the comments. Need all the help I can get.
 

BrotherJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2022
Messages
65
Points
33
Location
Georgia, US
I wouldn't want sheet rock exposed to that level of moisture for long periods. It's basically chalk compressed between layers of paper. It'll absorb moisture and, when the temperature goes down (when you turn the heater off), it may start to mold. It'll definitely weaken over time if it goes through a lot of wet and dry cycles. I'm not sure I would want the wood exposed to the inside either for the same reasons. It would probably work for a while, though.

From what I know, there's three types of tobacco chamber you might want to build.
(I invite other members to correct my numbers if they're off. I've never done flue-curing. Much of this information has been culled from elsewhere on the forum.)

1) You might want a box you can use for yellowing. This would be low temperature (90 - 100 degrees F) and high humidity (70%+). You would use this to yellow the leaf before you hang it up to dry. (If it dies green, it dries green. Bad baccy.) This should only take a few days. Watch for mold in these conditions.
2) You might want a box you can use for "soft" kilning (my term for it). This would be medium temperature (122 - 128 degrees F) and high humidity (70%+). This gives the effect of "accelerated aging." This will take probably three to six weeks. As long as the temperature stays above 122 or so, you shouldn't have to worry about mold.
3) You might want a box you can use for flue-curing. This would be high temperature (165 - 180 degrees F) and high humidity (70%+). This gives the effect of "locking in sweetness" for the sweet varieties. (It's unnecessary for many varieties.) This will take probably two or more weeks. You shouldn't have to worry about mold in these conditions.

Of the three, the flue-curing chamber is the most demanding on build specs and energy consumption. The good news is that, with proper controllers, a flue-curing chamber can be used for any of the three purposes. The bad news is that you'd have only one chamber, so you can only do one of the three things at a time. If you don't have a lot of plants to deal with, this should be good enough for all your purposes.

If you can acquire the materials, I would definitely recommend insulating it heavily. If those are 3/4" pine boards, they should give you an r-value of around 1.25. If you want a flue-curing chamber, the temperature difference between inside and outside will be probably 70 or 80 degrees F. I would recommend 4 inches of XPS foam board, but that can get expensive. That would give you an r-value around 20. It may be that 2 inches would work. That would give you an r-value around 10. Somewhat surprisingly, the average refrigerator/freezer has an r-value of 10 or less. I think you can get away with just 2 inches, though 4 would mean less use of electricity.

(I think you might already know this part.) Running a kiln is all about putting heat in faster than it can get out. The better the kiln is insulated, the more efficient it will be. If the kiln is not efficient enough, you'll have a situation in which the heater stays on constantly, but your maximum temperature still isn't as high as you want it. If the kiln is theoretically perfectly efficient, the heater only has to get the chamber up to temperature once and never come on again. So, the goal is a well-insulated chamber that will hold its heat without running the heater too much. You'll be running this thing for weeks at a time, so efficiency is kind of a big deal. The power draw should be pretty low, however, so it's not a huge deal.

Recommendations (assuming you have the time and the money):
1) 2 inches of XPS foam board all around the inside (wood on the outside), caulked in with foam-safe caulking.
2) Some kind of heat sink to move the heat from your heating pad into the air more quickly. Pads are great for heating, but very bad at spreading the heat. You might be able to use a $20 space heater that already has a blower built-in. (Just make sure no tobacco or anything else flammable can fall on it.) That would seem like the better option for a box your size.

If you can do those two things to the chamber you already have, I think you might be ready to do the business.
 
Last edited:

BrotherJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2022
Messages
65
Points
33
Location
Georgia, US
My memory just got jogged and I should add one thing. The manufacturer recommendation for XPS foam board lists 165 degrees F as a maximum working temperature with 180 degrees F as the maximum intermittent temperature during installation. So, for a flue-curing chamber insulated with XPS, 165 degrees F should be treated as a maximum. I also just found mention in somebody else's grow blog that Bob used 2 inches of XPS in his flue-curing chamber. It'll work, but it shouldn't be driven much higher than 165.
 

deluxestogie

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
25,606
Points
113
Location
near Blacksburg, VA
Flue-curing chart, with temps and durations:
Flue Cure Chart.jpg
 
Top