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Key Largo Florida. Winter growing experiment.

Didgeridoo86

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Hello all.

Today I just planted my first tobacco seeds.
I am going to be experimenting with growing Rustica Nicotiana in late season and through winter in the Florida Keys.

In the first picture you can see that I am going to try sprouting the seeds in an egg crate. I'm just using some old flower bed soil that I dug out of an old garden. I sifted it to get a medium consistency.

Next I took a sheet of paper and I separated out two individual seeds to plant in each of the 18 slots. I used a small folded bit of paper to load one seed at a time and carefully placed the two seeds in each slot.

As I was seeding I took a tiny bit of scrap paper and placed it over the cell that had been already planted so that I won't loose track of my progress.

I placed it in the window and closed the lid after giving it a good spray in. The temperature in my room stays at about 76 degrees day and night.

The end goal is to see if it's possible to grow even through winter here. And I figured that wild tobacco would have the best chance of surviving.

If I see enough proper growth going into winter I'll start sprouting next years crop which will be Blue Star 100. Supposedly fast growing and very large. And have it planted by the end of January. If it works I'll have two full growing seasons a year.

Now, I do need your opinion on one issue.
That is Soil quality.
On one side, being in the tropics all plants grow like weeds all year round.
However it's just two to five inches of leaf litter soil on top of coral rock bed.

In the last few pictures you can see the space that I have to grow along the border of my property. Under the leaf litter is fairly rich composed soil. It's just not very deep.

I am fully aware that I will need to be fertilizing once a week with a high nitrogen blend. (Whatever is good for tomatoes).
I would prefer a slow release pellet style because it rains so much here.

I really want to avoid having to buy a ton of dirt at the local store for $4 a bag.
I suspect I'll need a bag per plant so that's 18 bags. That's about $72 and I want to do this as free as possible. I might try scavenging some dirt from the local woods.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
 

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deluxestogie

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Have a look at this grow log from Naples, FL:


Bob
 

deluxestogie

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And I figured that wild tobacco would have the best chance of surviving.
Nicotiana rustica is not a wild tobacco. It was intentionally cultivated and agronomically improved for at least 2000 years.


Bob
 

johnny108

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Sadly, rustica doesn’t cure well when time
release fertilizer is used.
And a 5 inch layer of soil might be a bit too shallow for tobacco, but it’s worth a try, since tobacco doesn’t have a tap root.
With my experiences with rusticas, I’d try to raise the soil level to 10” deep. I would use some wooden boards to make a raised bed.
 

GreenDragon

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Welcome to the forum! A few thoughts / comments:

Go ahead and plant the Blue Star. Any variety will grow just fine year round that far South. (Also, I've never seen anyone comment here that they actually liked the taste of rustica.)
In my experience most of the roots stay in the top 3-4 inches of soil. That's all the "good stuff" you need. Also, tobacco does very well in large pots & buckets.
Your planting location looks to be in the shade. Tobacco likes a lot of sun.
Many here on the forum use regular 10-10-10 granular fertilizer.
I would move your seed setup outside to a shady location. No need to start them indoors unless you live up North. It will also help harden them off quicker.

Have fun and enjoy the journey!
 

wruk53

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@deluxestogie
That Naples blog was interesting. I was surprised to see them growing in such small pots.
I think the difference is I am staring my growing season in August. He started in January.

Leedy.

I think the difference is I am staring my growing season in August. He started in January.
I have more seedlings growing now for a fall crop, it will be near Christmas before they are completely harvested. You are pretty close to Homestead, which is a well-known tomato producing area and the farmers there routinely grow winter crops of all sorts of tomatoes and vegetables. I can't give you any advice on soil, but your climate is definitely suitable for winter growing.
 

Didgeridoo86

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So my first batch of seedlings failed. I didn't realize that the soil type I had was dry under the substrate while the surface remained wet. Because of that the roots dried out.
I need to research better sprouting methods and I'll try again with Burley seeds instead of the Rustica that I initially sprouted. I think I understand now that once the sprouts have established that I need to poor water instead of using the sprayer to water.
It's a big learning process for me being my first time. I also purchased my fertilizer that I will mix with the potting soil. It may have had a role in the sprouts failing as well.
Wish me luck.
 

Knucklehead

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So my first batch of seedlings failed. I didn't realize that the soil type I had was dry under the substrate while the surface remained wet. Because of that the roots dried out.
I need to research better sprouting methods and I'll try again with Burley seeds instead of the Rustica that I initially sprouted. I think I understand now that once the sprouts have established that I need to poor water instead of using the sprayer to water.
It's a big learning process for me being my first time. I also purchased my fertilizer that I will mix with the potting soil. It may have had a role in the sprouts failing as well.
Wish me luck.
I use Miracle Gro Seed Starting mix. It wicks up the proper amount of moisture. Use 1020 trays and inserts and water from the bottom only. Watering from the top can create soil compaction, spiral root, and more prone to damping off. I remove a perforated cell pack to water in the bottom tray then replace the cell pack. If your starter mix is dry, dump some water into the whole bag and mix it around until the whole bag is moist. This can take a day or so to rehydrate the bag of mix. Moist soil will wick properly in the cell, dry mix has a hard time wicking properly.
 

StoneCarver

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I need to poor water instead of using the sprayer to water.
I don't think it really matters either way; I do both and it just depends on how I'm feeling that day. As knucklehead indicated above, the trick is to start with moist soil and don't let it dry out. That way it wicks moisture properly. If it helps you, you can used a humidity dome or some such to slow down the rate the soil dries out.
 
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