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Recommendations For Air Curing vs. Flue Curing in WA State

manfisher

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I am in WA State. While I haven't even put my tobacco in the ground yet, I am trying to plan ahead. Our Summers the last four years have been hooooot, I am talking 80-100F with maybe 7 days of rain the whole Summer (if lucky). Some days in the early Summer when we have had rain, it can be quite humid but usually it is a bone dry heat. I am debating on what method I should take for my burleys and VA once I harvest. I have a tool shed I could hang them in but it can get very humid in there and I am worrying about mold. I also have a "helper" that lives in that shed who I am worried might chew my handing line or leaves (he is a furry helper with a bushy tail). Attached to my tool shed is an cover where I park the tractor under which is of course, exposed to the elements which I am leaning towards. Based on our climate and set up, is there a method you would recommend (flue vs. air cured)?
 

deluxestogie

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If you are not planning to flue-cure your Virginia varieties, then stalk-harvesting and stalk-hanging them after the leaves have mostly matured might work. Stalk-cutting after it has mostly matured, or even ripened (to full yellow), and stalk-curing burley is standard. Your curing season will typically start 2 months or so after you transplant to the field.

The daily cycle of humidity during the 6+ weeks of color curing is an important factor. Try to search on-line for the average monthly temp/humidity for your zip code. For me, in southwest Virginia, my curing season is typically mid-July through early October—sometimes into November, depending on the specific varieties.

Try here:

Bob
 
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Knucklehead

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I am in WA State. While I haven't even put my tobacco in the ground yet, I am trying to plan ahead. Our Summers the last four years have been hooooot, I am talking 80-100F with maybe 7 days of rain the whole Summer (if lucky). Some days in the early Summer when we have had rain, it can be quite humid but usually it is a bone dry heat. I am debating on what method I should take for my burleys and VA once I harvest. I have a tool shed I could hang them in but it can get very humid in there and I am worrying about mold. I also have a "helper" that lives in that shed who I am worried might chew my handing line or leaves (he is a furry helper with a bushy tail). Attached to my tool shed is an cover where I park the tractor under which is of course, exposed to the elements which I am leaning towards. Based on our climate and set up, is there a method you would recommend (flue vs. air cured)?
The VA will be sweeter if sun cured. More sweet than air cured, less sweet than flue cured.
 

manfisher

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Dec 21, 2023
Messages
260
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If you are not planning to flue-cure your Virginia varieties, then stalk-harvesting and stalk-hanging them after the leaves have mostly matured might work. Stalk-cutting after it has mostly matured, or even ripened (to full yellow), and stalk-curing burley is standard. Your curing season will typically start 2 months or so after you transplant to the field.

The daily cycle of humidity during the 6+ weeks of color curing is an important factor. Try to search on-line for the average monthly temp/humidity for your zip code. For me, in southwest Virginia, my curing season is typically mid-July through early October—sometimes into November, depending on the specific varieties.

Try here:

Bob
Thanks Bob, super helpful!
 
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