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“Staying alive”: @ChrisN

wruk53

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Thank you very much, Bob!
Was curious how often do I water seedlings in seed tray and how low/close should I hang the grow light to the tray?
Both of those questions are kind of difficult to answer. The short answer for watering frequency, would be to not let them get too dry nor too wet. If you are trying to germinate seeds, don't let the surface of your soil dry out before they have sprouted and developed some roots. When I start seeds, I lightly mist the surface of the soil several times a day until the seedlings are germinated and well established and after that, I just go by hefting the pots. If they start feeling a little too light, I'll add some water.

As to the light distancing, this could vary wildly according to the intensity (Lumens output) of your particular type of light. Hold the back of your hand under the light, determine the distance that feels uncomfortable to your skin and keep your plants a little further than that distance from the light. I have two different LED lights in two separate cabinets, one of the lights puts out 10,000 plus lumens, the other puts out 15,000 plus lumens. The top of my pots are about 13 inches from the light.

Not trying to be critical, but it looks to me as though a lot of your light is being wasted by just going out into space. You really should have your light inside a cabinet with the walls and ceiling painted flat white, so that most of the light is reflected back onto the plants. Don't use glossy paint, it can create hot spots, the flat paint reflects light more evenly. If it gets too hot in the cab, cut a hole in the top and mount a computer type fan to exhaust the heat.

Good luck, hope this helps.
 

ChrisN

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I start seed inside two months before my predicted last frost. I sprinkle the seed on top of the soil in the 1020 trays with propagation mats and the lights on. I do not cover them. If I am seeding more than one variety in a tray, I separate one 4 cell pack from the tray and carry those cells away from the others and seed that cell, then return that cell pack to the tray and repeat. This prevent mixing up varieties. I label each cell pack. My seedlings stay in the cells until transplant to patch. Some guys use a separate starting method them move the seedlings to the 1020 trays or pots. Some guys let the seedlings get a little larger and then transplant to larger pots. Those methods work for them.

1020 trays come in different numbers of cells. I use mostly 48 or 72 depending on how many varieties I have and how much room I have for the total number of plants. I prefer the 48 cell. The trays can be purchased in 4 cell packs or 6 cell packs.

I have my set up in front of an eastern facing window because the window faced east. There are trees in front of it so it receives very little to no direct sunlight. It could just as well have faced any direction or no direction at all or have no window at all. I don’t move the seedlings outside until ready to harden off, approximately two weeks prior to transplant to the patch, depending on weather forecasts. Hardening - I move them outside a few minutes more each day, gradually increasing exposure to sun until they can withstand full sun all day. In the beginning they will be very susceptible to sun scald and can turn to mushy useless badness in an Alabama minute. I withhold water the last week as part of the hardening process.

Many guys here use different methods and have great harvests at the end of the season. Read some grow blogs and decide how those different methods work for your situation and your micro-climate.
Thank you very much, Knucklehead! I will for sure check out the other grow blogs.
 

ChrisN

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Both of those questions are kind of difficult to answer. The short answer for watering frequency, would be to not let them get too dry nor too wet. If you are trying to germinate seeds, don't let the surface of your soil dry out before they have sprouted and developed some roots. When I start seeds, I lightly mist the surface of the soil several times a day until the seedlings are germinated and well established and after that, I just go by hefting the pots. If they start feeling a little too light, I'll add some water.

As to the light distancing, this could vary wildly according to the intensity (Lumens output) of your particular type of light. Hold the back of your hand under the light, determine the distance that feels uncomfortable to your skin and keep your plants a little further than that distance from the light. I have two different LED lights in two separate cabinets, one of the lights puts out 10,000 plus lumens, the other puts out 15,000 plus lumens. The top of my pots are about 13 inches from the light.

Not trying to be critical, but it looks to me as though a lot of your light is being wasted by just going out into space. You really should have your light inside a cabinet with the walls and ceiling painted flat white, so that most of the light is reflected back onto the plants. Don't use glossy paint, it can create hot spots, the flat paint reflects light more evenly. If it gets too hot in the cab, cut a hole in the top and mount a computer type fan to exhaust the heat.

Good luck, hope this helps.
Thank you very much, wruk53! I'll see what I can do about the lighting.
 

deluxestogie

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Thanks, Bob! Interesting, just curious how do you grow your tobacco plants?
Sunlight illuminates the wire shelves along the windows of my south-facing, enclosed back porch. I set my 1020 trays on the shelves, and just tend to watering them and clipping the leaves when needed. Wavelength, intensity, proximity, timing cycle all happen without my assistance. So I have no experience with intentionally lighting plants.

Bob
 

ChrisN

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Peoria IL
Sunlight illuminates the wire shelves along the windows of my south-facing, enclosed back porch. I set my 1020 trays on the shelves, and just tend to watering them and clipping the leaves when needed. Wavelength, intensity, proximity, timing cycle all happen without my assistance. So I have no experience with intentionally lighting plants.

Bob
Very cool, if possible I would prefer to let them grow naturally without lighting but not sure it’s possible for my situation.
By the way, I didn’t realize this book was written by you, Bob, until I got it today. Awesome book! Great work! Looking forward to reading it
 

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ChrisN

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Was curious, where everyone buys their seeds and if possible, why they choose that place over others? Are there places that have better seeds?
my first seeds this year, came from sustainable.
Thank you!
 

Knucklehead

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Was curious, where everyone buys their seeds and if possible, why they choose that place over others? Are there places that have better seeds?
my first seeds this year, came from sustainable.
Thank you!
www.northwoodseeds.com
a longtime forum member. Sells wholesale but retails to FTT to help the guys out. Supplier for many of the seed retailers incl. Sustainable if I’m not mistaken. Very conscientious about bagging the plants to maintain purity, sends out his seed for professional germination testing. Good guy.
 

ChrisN

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Peoria IL
www.northwoodseeds.com
a longtime forum member. Sells wholesale but retails to FTT to help the guys out. Supplier for many of the seed retailers incl. Sustainable if I’m not mistaken. Very conscientious about bagging the plants to maintain purity, sends out his seed for professional germination testing. Good guy.
Awesome, thank you very much, Knucklehead! I’ll for sure be purchasing from him.
 

ChrisN

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Peoria IL
Was curious if there are plant choices that would make good multi-use for cigars and cigarettes? Would like to keep my tobacco species # as low as I could, for example if I could make do with 3 species.
One species I am eyeing is Havana 142
also noticed Wisconsin 901. As a cigar wrapper was considering Connecticut broadleaf or habano 2000.
I am a fan of the Caribbean cigars and medium to full blend cigarettes.
 

skychaser

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Was curious if there are plant choices that would make good multi-use for cigars and cigarettes? Would like to keep my tobacco species # as low as I could, for example if I could make do with 3 species.
One species I am eyeing is Havana 142
also noticed Wisconsin 901. As a cigar wrapper was considering Connecticut broadleaf or habano 2000.
I am a fan of the Caribbean cigars and medium to full blend cigarettes.
I have heard several people say they liked Havana 142 in cigarettes. If you order the American Cigar Blend multi-pack I sell you will get a pack of Wisconsin 901, Connecticut Broadleaf and Pennsylvania Red,. The Caribbean Cigar Blend has Habano 2000, Cuban Criollo 98, and Havana 142, and often a pack of Florida Sumatra just happens to fall in too.

9.95 each with free shipping.
 

ChrisN

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Peoria IL
I have heard several people say they liked Havana 142 in cigarettes. If you order the American Cigar Blend multi-pack I sell you will get a pack of Wisconsin 901, Connecticut Broadleaf and Pennsylvania Red,. The Caribbean Cigar Blend has Habano 2000, Cuban Criollo 98, and Havana 142, and often a pack of Florida Sumatra just happens to fall in too.

9.95 each with free shipping.
Sounds great, thank you very much! Sending you a PM, have a question.
 

ChrisN

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Peoria IL
I started the plants rather late so the few I have will be grown indoors this time. I have the plants in pots but haven't noticed them grow much. How many days does it take from seed to harvest? Should I upgrade the pots? Was wondering if the plastic small greenhouse setups would be a good idea to start the seeds? Will post pictures of the plants. Thank you!
 

Cray Squirrel

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I started the plants rather late so the few I have will be grown indoors this time. I have the plants in pots but haven't noticed them grow much. How many days does it take from seed to harvest? Should I upgrade the pots? Was wondering if the plastic small greenhouse setups would be a good idea to start the seeds? Will post pictures of the plants. Thank you!
Hi Chris,
You've started a fun hobby and are in a great place to learn and further your hobby. Where you're at you'll need to keep the plants inside. Unless you have huge windows and plants are right up against those windows, you'll need grow lights. Not sure how big nor how many plants you have. Look forward to seeing pictures.
They may not be growing for a few reasons.. here's several..
1. Low temperature
2. Soggy or poor soil
3. Low or no fertilizer.
We'll know a bit more after we see pictures.
I dont think the little plastic greenhouse setups make you a better grower. Learning by reading, asking questions and experiences all help.
Good Luck!!
 

ChrisN

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Peoria IL
Hi Chris,
You've started a fun hobby and are in a great place to learn and further your hobby. Where you're at you'll need to keep the plants inside. Unless you have huge windows and plants are right up against those windows, you'll need grow lights. Not sure how big nor how many plants you have. Look forward to seeing pictures.
They may not be growing for a few reasons.. here's several..
1. Low temperature
2. Soggy or poor soil
3. Low or no fertilizer.
We'll know a bit more after we see pictures.
I dont think the little plastic greenhouse setups make you a better grower. Learning by reading, asking questions and experiences all help.
Good Luck!!
Hi,
Thank you very much!
If I start the seeds early inside, I can grow them outside during the summer months right? Only 5 plants survived/grew from seeds. I transplanted them into these pots when they got a decent size. They have grown a little but it’s definitely slower then expected. Currently have them in a room on the top floor of my second story house. It’s for sure warmer up there. The soil I planted them in is mixed, soils are: peat Moss, top soil (for veggies, etc) and vermiculite. I only water when soil has dried a little. I guess I could add some fertilizer. What kind should I use? A few of them didn’t grow straight like the others and I learned what went wrong there. I didn’t have the grow light close enough to them. I hope to correct that when I plant new seeds. Here are the pictures of them. Thank you very much again!
 

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Cray Squirrel

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Hey Chris,
These plants will be great practice to learn everything about growing bacca.
The plants are a bit stretched and not as strong as they could be.
They could use a few things to make them looks lots stronger pretty quickly.
1. Let them dry out. When I am training an employee to water plants or helping a retail customer learn to grow a new plant I tell them to let the plant go to wilt.( slightly droppy leaves). Its healthy wilt and lets you know exactly how often to water. If it wilts after 8 days... water every 7.
2. I would make sure that they had a good feeding. In the house they won't be able to use much but looks like they could use a feed. Any halfway balanced fertilizer powder you mix with water and give them a cup instead of just water. Then let them dry out again. The weight of the potted plant will let you know approximately how often to water. Water or feed thoroughly when they need it. Dont water a little bit frequently.
3. Light in the low light levels of winter can be tough. Put your grow light really close. Put your hand in front of the light and if it gets hot after 30 seconds or so, it's too close. Good to have a set like this to play with and practice on.
If you grow a set of plants next spring for planting outside, you will be able to use the lights for that also.
I really like this set here. The closest I can buy retail that approaches commercial lights.
The nice thing about these is they can be hung in a closet, generate heat and you can remove some tubes to only light part if the area. You can also hang them from one end so you can light plants from the side. If you choose to use lights it will make a big difference in your seedlings next spring. Not sure what kind of grow light you have. Most people tend to use too small of an led light.
You can get these plants through the winter. Might have to cut them off in early spring and let one sucker be the new central leader stem. They'll probably look kinda straggly after winter so it'll make them look better and be stronger.
In Illinois, I suspect you'll probably plant your main patch outside in Mid May so that means you can start seed inside, under your lights about mid March or so.
Luck to you...
Cliff
 

ChrisN

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Peoria IL
Hey Chris,
These plants will be great practice to learn everything about growing bacca.
The plants are a bit stretched and not as strong as they could be.
They could use a few things to make them looks lots stronger pretty quickly.
1. Let them dry out. When I am training an employee to water plants or helping a retail customer learn to grow a new plant I tell them to let the plant go to wilt.( slightly droppy leaves). Its healthy wilt and lets you know exactly how often to water. If it wilts after 8 days... water every 7.
2. I would make sure that they had a good feeding. In the house they won't be able to use much but looks like they could use a feed. Any halfway balanced fertilizer powder you mix with water and give them a cup instead of just water. Then let them dry out again. The weight of the potted plant will let you know approximately how often to water. Water or feed thoroughly when they need it. Dont water a little bit frequently.
3. Light in the low light levels of winter can be tough. Put your grow light really close. Put your hand in front of the light and if it gets hot after 30 seconds or so, it's too close. Good to have a set like this to play with and practice on.
If you grow a set of plants next spring for planting outside, you will be able to use the lights for that also.
I really like this set here. The closest I can buy retail that approaches commercial lights.
The nice thing about these is they can be hung in a closet, generate heat and you can remove some tubes to only light part if the area. You can also hang them from one end so you can light plants from the side. If you choose to use lights it will make a big difference in your seedlings next spring. Not sure what kind of grow light you have. Most people tend to use too small of an led light.
You can get these plants through the winter. Might have to cut them off in early spring and let one sucker be the new central leader stem. They'll probably look kinda straggly after winter so it'll make them look better and be stronger.
In Illinois, I suspect you'll probably plant your main patch outside in Mid May so that means you can start seed inside, under your lights about mid March or so.
Luck to you...
Cliff
Hi Cliff,
Thank you very much!
I will let them dry out and start to wilt. I have a Miracle grow powder mix that I can add to water will that work ok? I will also get the grow light on them. I will take a picture of the light I have. Was thinking of getting something like this, do these work or not a good idea?
So let these 5 plants start to sucker and I should cut these? How far on the stem should I cut?
Ok, so I would want to plant seeds mid March? If I start earlier, say Jan or Feb will that work ok? I started these in the pictures in April or May.
Thank you very much again! Take care.
Chris
 

ChrisN

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Peoria IL
Thank you very much, Bob!
So, when the plant grows a sucker I should cut the main stalk on the ones that aren't growing straight? Also, I read in the "how to grow your own cigars" to use unchlorinated water, is the chlorine bad? what does it do to growth?
What about the LED light I mentioned on amazon? Looks ok to use or not enough light? Thank you!
 
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