Cray Squirrel
Squirreled a lot!!
Roman
I couldn't get the videos to open.
I couldn't get the videos to open.
a lack of nutrition or illness
- Thread starter roman1967
- Start date
- Status
Here I come to this conclusion, a strong tightening, and an aggressive plum tree in which the roots go 40-50 cm underground and constantly start up new shoots
good day
The introduction of macro and micro fertilizers did not solve my problem
Young leaves twist all the same, old leaves become lethargic, but do not turn yellow
Bushes half as low as necessary, a little more than a meter
I didn't buy a PH meter in the nearest stores, I don't even have test strips, I have to order it via the Internet, so I decided that now let everything remain as it is, and over the winter I will calmly prepare for the next season, take soil measurements and, if necessary, purchase it. acidifying fertilizers or generally add acidic soil
The introduction of macro and micro fertilizers did not solve my problem
Young leaves twist all the same, old leaves become lethargic, but do not turn yellow
Bushes half as low as necessary, a little more than a meter
I didn't buy a PH meter in the nearest stores, I don't even have test strips, I have to order it via the Internet, so I decided that now let everything remain as it is, and over the winter I will calmly prepare for the next season, take soil measurements and, if necessary, purchase it. acidifying fertilizers or generally add acidic soil
Symptoms of the disease began as a lack of calcium, young leaves curled up (although symptoms of calcium overdose appear as well), after that the lower leaves, like the stem of the plant itself, become lethargic and soft, although the growth of some continues and they even try to bloom
In general, it became a matter of measuring the acidity of the soil on the site
In general, it became a matter of measuring the acidity of the soil on the site
The PH meter is on its way, so measurements of the acidity of my soil are still to come.
But the more I read about tobacco and its cultivation, the more I look at my tobacco patch, the more I become convinced that my soil is too oily for it and does not drain well.
All problems:
curling leaves,
wilting of bushes,
small height of the bushes,
due to the large amount of moisture in the area where our ordinary land (black soil), all the bushes that I planted on the sand, I have in perfect condition and are already more than 2 meters high, and they have not even begun to bloom yet
But the more I read about tobacco and its cultivation, the more I look at my tobacco patch, the more I become convinced that my soil is too oily for it and does not drain well.
All problems:
curling leaves,
wilting of bushes,
small height of the bushes,
due to the large amount of moisture in the area where our ordinary land (black soil), all the bushes that I planted on the sand, I have in perfect condition and are already more than 2 meters high, and they have not even begun to bloom yet
Measured the acidity of the soil, shows PH-7-7.3
Ideal pH range for tobacco is 5.8 to no higher than 6.5.
Bob
Bob
Thank you, I already understood this. Now next year I will buy either ready-made soil, or fertilizers that acidify the soil and add a little sand to the beds
What is preferable for tobacco ???
ammonium sulfate,
ammonium chloride,
ammonium nitrate,
urea,
ammonium bicarbonate,
superphosphate,
ammophos.
or maybe it is better to buy peat soil
Last edited:
For your seedlings:
https://tobacco.ces.ncsu.edu/wp-con...ion-in-the-Greenhouse-Float-System.pdf?fwd=no
http://darktobacco.ca.uky.edu/files/floatsystems-greenhousesweba.pdf
For your field tobacco:
https://tobacco.ces.ncsu.edu/tobacco-fertility-nutrients/
https://darktobacco.ca.uky.edu/files/tobaccofertility.pdf
https://www.uky.edu/Ag/TobaccoProd/...en Fertilizer Recommendations for Tobacco.pdf
https://tobacco.ces.ncsu.edu/wp-con...ion-in-the-Greenhouse-Float-System.pdf?fwd=no
http://darktobacco.ca.uky.edu/files/floatsystems-greenhousesweba.pdf
For your field tobacco:
https://tobacco.ces.ncsu.edu/tobacco-fertility-nutrients/
https://darktobacco.ca.uky.edu/files/tobaccofertility.pdf
https://www.uky.edu/Ag/TobaccoProd/...en Fertilizer Recommendations for Tobacco.pdf
I'm afraid I am not familiar with some of those compounds. Avoid chloride. I would suggest that you contact a local agricultural agent regarding how to acidify your soil, and what is available to purchase. When I have needed to acidify my soil, I purchased ammonium sulfate used for azalea and blueberry.
Bob
Bob
Guys, today's Russia, this is not like the great USSR, what a field agent, we do not really paint or produce anything, so you can only rely on yourself and your knowledge.
Now I will study this topic a little more, and in the spring I will act according to the situation, but I personally tend to buy peat land, it is still a more natural product, it is available in large volumes and the effect is longer than the introduction of chemistry
Now I will study this topic a little more, and in the spring I will act according to the situation, but I personally tend to buy peat land, it is still a more natural product, it is available in large volumes and the effect is longer than the introduction of chemistry
a little clarification, maybe you still remember the data
What was your land before the introduction of ammonium sulfate ???
What amount of fertilizer per 1 square meter have you applied ???
What result did the chemistry get and how quickly did the chemistry work ???
As far as I understand, the introduction of acidifying fertilizers gives a result no earlier than two weeks, and the result of acidification with chemistry does not give a long-term effect
All of the land surrounding my area requires the addition of lime each year. That is what the agricultural research people say. I used to do that each year. When I finally sent a soil sample to the lab (quite a few years ago), it reported overly alkaline soil. I slapped my forehead. I had recognized for years that my soil is underlain by limestone. Some of it even pokes out in places. So the soil type map apparently lacked sufficient resolution to mark my particular spot as already being alkaline.
I discussed this with the farmer who lived here before me. He said he never added lime, but just fertilizer each year. So, to correct my error, I added ammonium sulfate at the rate recommended for blueberries (I can't remember the specifics)--once only, then simply avoided adding lime each year. That has worked well. Since my entire tobacco planting has seldom exceeded 1000 square feet each year, I have not invested in further lab work. I just just fertilize (N-P-K 10-10-10) each spring, and plant. Then I judge the result.
Bob
I discussed this with the farmer who lived here before me. He said he never added lime, but just fertilizer each year. So, to correct my error, I added ammonium sulfate at the rate recommended for blueberries (I can't remember the specifics)--once only, then simply avoided adding lime each year. That has worked well. Since my entire tobacco planting has seldom exceeded 1000 square feet each year, I have not invested in further lab work. I just just fertilize (N-P-K 10-10-10) each spring, and plant. Then I judge the result.
Bob
• The use of ammonium sulfate is recommended (application rates):
• in vegetable growing (in physical weight): white cabbage - 60 g / m2, cauliflower - 45 g / m2, broccoli - 45 g / m2, red cabbage - 75 g / m2, Brussels sprouts - 60 g / m2, cabbage kohlrabi - 40 g / m2, radish - 30 g / m2, radish - 35 g / m2, turnip - 25 g / m2, sorrel - 40 g / m2; carrots - 30-40 g / m2, parsley - 30-40 g / m2, pumpkin and zucchini - 30-40 g / m2, tomatoes (tomatoes) - 30-45 g / m2, other vegetables - 30-50 g / m2;
• in fruit growing (in physical weight): gooseberries and raspberries - 50-60 g / m2, other fruit and berry crops - 40-50 g / m2.
• in vegetable growing (in physical weight): white cabbage - 60 g / m2, cauliflower - 45 g / m2, broccoli - 45 g / m2, red cabbage - 75 g / m2, Brussels sprouts - 60 g / m2, cabbage kohlrabi - 40 g / m2, radish - 30 g / m2, radish - 35 g / m2, turnip - 25 g / m2, sorrel - 40 g / m2; carrots - 30-40 g / m2, parsley - 30-40 g / m2, pumpkin and zucchini - 30-40 g / m2, tomatoes (tomatoes) - 30-45 g / m2, other vegetables - 30-50 g / m2;
• in fruit growing (in physical weight): gooseberries and raspberries - 50-60 g / m2, other fruit and berry crops - 40-50 g / m2.
Do you compost your vegetation, paper, animal waste, etc. to make new soil?
In general, I am far from gardening, I am a carpenter, furniture maker, wood carver, I just like to try new things.
Here my Mom makes something like compost, uses horse manure, she grows tomatoes, asparagus, cabbage and cauliflower, beets, carrots, various greens and much more.
What do you suggest ???
- Status