adamziegler
Well-Known Member
I don't think it would hurt to repot in final containers as soon as is convenient for you
Pine Morton’s First Grow - 2025
- Thread starter Pine Morton
- Start date
I transplanted about that root-bound (when I see roots poking out from the drainage holes- time to move!).
This has worked with everything EXCEPT Drosgi Black-Blue (rustica): which flowers as soon as it reaches the sides of the pot, it seems.
If you have no space, leave them in the small pot to flower, and see what you get. It is a lot of messing around for almost no leaf, but it will show you what the plant does as it matures, before the re-potted or in-ground plants, giving you a chance to observe and learn.
This has worked with everything EXCEPT Drosgi Black-Blue (rustica): which flowers as soon as it reaches the sides of the pot, it seems.
If you have no space, leave them in the small pot to flower, and see what you get. It is a lot of messing around for almost no leaf, but it will show you what the plant does as it matures, before the re-potted or in-ground plants, giving you a chance to observe and learn.
Pine Morton
Active Member
I’ve been dragging my feet on potting up to my plants’ final container, although I’m going to leave a few plants in their cells as Johnny suggested. Been noticing some yellowing in both containers though:
I’ve noticed that most of the bottom leaves are wilting too. In the mornings they firm up a bit, but by the end of the day they’re limp. This leaf has a bit of damage from the lip of the pot too.
The plants that are still in their cells have had much more yellowing. Some of the leaves almost look white:
The KY5 appears to be much more susceptible to this yellowing.
It seems like the yellow/white leaves are more likely to be eaten by insects too. These plants have been outside for a few weeks now, but the only bug damage I’ve seen has been on the yellowing leaves.
Is this a nutrient issue? If it is, that would explain why the plants still in cells are yellowing more… the nutrients in their smaller quantity of growing medium is starting to deplete.
The plants that I potted up have fresh growing medium, so more nutrients. I used miracle gro potting mix for the pots… but I guess I need to figure out a fertilizer.
I’ve noticed that most of the bottom leaves are wilting too. In the mornings they firm up a bit, but by the end of the day they’re limp. This leaf has a bit of damage from the lip of the pot too.
The plants that are still in their cells have had much more yellowing. Some of the leaves almost look white:
The KY5 appears to be much more susceptible to this yellowing.
It seems like the yellow/white leaves are more likely to be eaten by insects too. These plants have been outside for a few weeks now, but the only bug damage I’ve seen has been on the yellowing leaves.
Is this a nutrient issue? If it is, that would explain why the plants still in cells are yellowing more… the nutrients in their smaller quantity of growing medium is starting to deplete.
The plants that I potted up have fresh growing medium, so more nutrients. I used miracle gro potting mix for the pots… but I guess I need to figure out a fertilizer.
wruk53
Well-Known Member
The soil in the second photo looks pretty dry to me, they shouldn't be wilting like that. Hard to tell from pictures though.
Pine Morton
Active Member
The surface of the soil is fairly dry. I’ve been watering from the bottom using a tray, but these pots also have a “built-in water tray” on the bottom that might be getting in the way. I can try to drill some extra holes to make sure enough water is getting in.
The odd thing about the wilting though is that it’s just the bottom leaves. Is that normal?
Some varieties of burley tend to develop ivory-white bottom leaves. This is a genetic defect related to chlorophyll production and clearance. When harvested from mature plants, these white leaves will color-cure normally, with normal nicotine concentrations.
Bob
Bob
Pine Morton
Active Member
Hm, that’s very interesting. I looked up this cultivar and found this photo on the USDA GRIN site:
These bottom leaves look similarly pale, but I can’t tell if that’s just ripening on the mature plant.
In the photo below, "Chillard's White Angel Leaf" is the name that forum member, @chillardbee, gave to a burley derived from seed of an unidentified variety sent to him. The photo is from my grow-out of that seed.
[2015]
Bob
[2015]
Bob
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Pine Morton
Active Member
Wow, very striking! I’ll continue to monitor these burleys, maybe I’ll get some nice white leaves like that too… if the bugs don’t eat them all.
Pine Morton
Active Member
Pulled off the “built-in water trays” on my pots. They weren’t getting any water… turns out the holes on the bottom weren’t actually holes.
I also went ahead and pruned some suckers I think.
Pulled those little leaves off on all the plants.
I also went ahead and pruned some suckers I think.
Pulled those little leaves off on all the plants.
Pine Morton
Active Member
Haven’t gotten a chance to pot up to my plants’ final container… bad weather, and I need more potting mix. Hopefully it won’t have too much of a negative impact.
This morning:
This afternoon. Pulled them onto the porch to avoid the storm rolling through:
Noticed something odd that wasn’t there this morning:
Any idea what might be causing this discoloration?
This morning:
This afternoon. Pulled them onto the porch to avoid the storm rolling through:
Noticed something odd that wasn’t there this morning:
Any idea what might be causing this discoloration?
Pine Morton
Active Member
I’m thinking this is a sun burn… I’m hoping they’ll recover.
Pine Morton
Active Member
Four plants potted up to their final containers… at long last. I think I’ll have enough space for six in total by the end.
Pine Morton
Active Member
My plants are really taking a beating from the sun… any advice? I’m thinking I didn’t harden them enough before setting them out off the porch.
The Haroo ln
Haroon
They will be fine in a week or so. I didnt have time to harden mine off before I transplanted outside due to being on holiday and then wanting to transplant outside from the seedlings pots on the day I came back, to avoid a late planting season and get the full benefit of them in the ground on time this year. It's just transplant shock but they will adjust in a week or so. You can try giving them a half strength balanced fertilizer but nothing to crazy maybe a 10-10-10 might help. Just let them do their thing for around a week or 10 days and then check them oh and as Johnny said, try moving them out of the sun for a few hours a day too.
Look at the top few leaves. If they look healthy, then just be patient, and allow the plants to remain where you have them. Those bottom leaves are just the trash leaf that will likely be discarded when the plant matures.
Pots tend to give us humans the impression that plants would be better off if they were mobile.
Bob
Pine Morton
Active Member
Update on my plants: they seem to be stabilizing, but they still don’t look great.
Virginia Gold:
KY5:
Compare those to the plants that are still in their small pots.
My tallest Virginia Gold:
My best looking KY5:
Maybe the plants in the big pots are still spreading their roots. At any rate, I have two more large pots. I’m considering transferring another of each plant, but they seem to be doing well enough in their small pots. I know that will limit their size, but I’m concerned that they’ll end up looking like the ones I transferred already… any advice?
Virginia Gold:
KY5:
Compare those to the plants that are still in their small pots.
My tallest Virginia Gold:
My best looking KY5:
Maybe the plants in the big pots are still spreading their roots. At any rate, I have two more large pots. I’m considering transferring another of each plant, but they seem to be doing well enough in their small pots. I know that will limit their size, but I’m concerned that they’ll end up looking like the ones I transferred already… any advice?
Whenever my transplants look like that, I give them a big drink of a soluble (therefore instantly available) of triple-20 fertilizer at full strength, along with half a teaspoon of Epsom salt per gallon. Usually perks them up and gets them green, again.
I’ve had pretty good luck this year using the triple-20 as my transplant water. Seems to prevent the yellowing as the plant tries to push out new roots.
Where I got the idea:
high phosphorus levels in transplant water helps give rapid early growth. (https://www.arec.vaes.vt.edu/conten...lue-cured-production-guide/Complete Guide.pdf. Page 30 of the document/36 of the pdf file)
I’ve had pretty good luck this year using the triple-20 as my transplant water. Seems to prevent the yellowing as the plant tries to push out new roots.
Where I got the idea:
high phosphorus levels in transplant water helps give rapid early growth. (https://www.arec.vaes.vt.edu/conten...lue-cured-production-guide/Complete Guide.pdf. Page 30 of the document/36 of the pdf file)