Harrison 2025 grow blog

[The Haroo ln]

It was a weird grow. I planted March 28. There was a storm that bent some of the plants, and I could not bend them
Back without cracking the plant. I tested soil and put blood meal that was not supposed to burn the plant but I think did. The plants that got the right amount of nitrogen and did not get blown down, grew straight and tall, at least 6-7 feet. But I topped them several times too. It’s all an experiment. Comacho cigars use Criollo 98 in the blend (I was told)…

Yeah i smoke a lot of 'my father' and tatuaje cigars. I know don pepin uses a lot of corojo and criollo too. That's the reason I grew 3 cigar varieties this year.

I also have criollo plants that have been blown and bent my strong winds. Its a shame because they looked like they would have actually gotten a lot taller.

 

[WillQuantrill]

By no means am I an expert, but of the two varieties Havana 608 leaves are bigger and thicker. Criollo 98 leaves are smaller, and thinner.

That is pretty good size Criollo 98 from my experience growing it last year. While I enjoy smoking and blending it, the variety was kind of lack luster in production compared to other "Caribbean" varieties I have grown. With the original Corojo being #1.

 

[Damanadaplaya]

Got smart this year (knock on wood). Cotton twine into nice neat, labeled bundles, a wireless temperature and humidity gauge with alarms, and minimal door openings. Volado, Seco, Ligeo Criollo 98, Havana 608 and some scrap MD609.

 

[deluxestogie]

Mold will grow below 122°F.

Bob

 

[Damanadaplaya]

Mold will grow below 122°F.

Bob

Thanks Bob, temps rising as I just “fired the kiln”. 122-128 is my goal.

 

[The Haroo ln]

If you want to ferment below 122f I would recommend a vent and a fan. Not sure how long the tobacco would last without mold but would definitely be longer than how you have it now. Also you'd have to have the humidity properly under 70% as that's where the mold starts.

 

[Damanadaplaya]

Seco,

If you want to ferment below 122f I would recommend a vent and a fan. Not sure how long the tobacco would last without mold but would definitely be longer than how you have it now. Also you'd have to have the humidity properly under 70% as that's where the mold starts.

This the first day, so it will be a game of controlling temp between 122-128, at that point I don’t think humidity is an issue because mold can’t grow. I did this before with success.

 

[The Haroo ln]

I wanted to do something similar to what commercial premium cigar makers do with fermentation. The first 30 days or so at 95f or below and then after sorting and de-veigning at least 60 days at around 100 -120f max. The only problem is that its way to hard to control the humidity that way and your asking for mold to grow. That was the only reason I suggested the vents and fan. Obviously it takes longer too. I don't mind the 122f-128f method too its easier and quicker. You can just leave the tobacco in the kiln and not have to worry about the humidity being too high. But with that in mind I still have some more criollo 98 and alot of corojo 99 to ferment, so might try a little batch at the end using the commercial temps. Sorry if I seem a little pushy its only my 2nd year growing so still seeking knowledge and trying to help where I can!

 

[Damanadaplaya]

I really like the sensor pro. I’m consistent at just over 127 degrees and averaging 126. I opened the kiln (an old fridge) at 11pm then around noon to add distilled water. The 6-7 seconds of the open door takes such a long time to recover.

 

[Damanadaplaya]

I am on day 11 of kiln fermentation going for 5 weeks, maintaining avg of 126f and 86% humidity. The tobacco bundles have slightly reduced in size, and is still med-high case. The aroma is getting slightly sweeter, so I’m on the right track for cigars.

I find myself wondering, and spent a “My Fathers cigar” searching the forum, should I at some point rearrange the bundles? To get air in them?

 

[deluxestogie]

should I at some point rearrange the bundles? To get air in them?

I think it's more a matter of getting uniform humidity to them. With tied bundles, the interior may or may not be at the displayed humidity. The temp, though, is likely stable within bundles.

Bob

 

[WillQuantrill]

I kiln with hands hanging leaving 3-4 inches of space between hands so I have never tried the bunch pile method. But, from what I have learned in my trials is that consistency really helps quality. If you think on a micro level of variables between inside the pile and outside conditions are different, producing different finished leaf. Manufacturers rotate from the inside to outside in the pilon method many times before the process is complete. Hope that makes sense.

 

[deluxestogie]

Manufacturers rotate from the inside to outside in the pilon method many times before the process is complete.

That is because, in the absence of an external heat source, most of the pile (pilon) is simply serving as thermal insulation, so that the center of the pile can spontaneously generate heat from its exothermal, oxidation process. Most of the pile is slowly fermenting at only ambient temperature, and must be rotated to the center of the pile to really progress. A pilon is what you do if electricity has not yet been invented.

Bob

 

[Damanadaplaya]

I just checked it, all the bundles are squishy but not wet, even the center. It’s pretty hot and humid in there. I may re-bundle at 2 weeks, then 4 weeks. Thanks for always being there Bob.