If you still have them we'd love to see them. Somebody started a thread to post pictures of your homemade pipes.
Pipe Making supplies and sources
- Thread starter Knucklehead
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If you still have them we'd love to see them. Somebody started a thread to post pictures of your homemade pipes.
I think I ended up giving them away. But with all this talk I'm thinking I'll try my hand at a Rhodesian when it gets warmer. My hands just get too stiff when its cold in the garage/workshop! Getting old sucks sometimes....time to do things now but the body doesn't want to cooperate!!!
john
john
Amen Bosun and sometimes the mind is weak too.
--- John
I hear you! It got down to 53 today here in Alabama. I had to get on some long handles. Winter is getting rough. Global warming my hind leg.
Knucks,
It got up to 53 today here in southwest Virginia. I'm expecting my Medicare card to arrive before the weather gets much warmer. My last pipe was entirely hand whittled. That's definitely summer time stuff.
Old Bob
I saw your pipe Bob, it helped start me on this journey. Durn your hide. LOL. Maybe warm weather won't catch us unawares and we'll have our plants ready. I'm rarin' to go!
Gettin' There Wallace
Well slightly changed my mind about my first project. A pipe maker from the Ukraine was nice enough to send me some measured drawings he drew for a Rhodesian he made. That should make my job alot easier. I've got to get used to working in millimeters though. His drawing is a work of art and has all the measurements. Here's his pipe. Sokolik is his name on the pipe makers forum. He's a really nice guy and said he'd help any way he could. I love this pipe!
leverhead
Well-Known Member
If you can work in decimal inches, divide 1 by 25.4 and put that value into memory (.03937). Multiply millimeters by that number to give decimal inches. If it's in centimeters, divide 1 by 2.54.
It's a pretty pipe and wood!
Thats a good looking pipe, I bet yours will look as good.
Nice looking pipe. My idea of a rhodesian is without the two grooves though. For 'close enough' I divide mm/cm by 5 then times by 2, just have to move the decimal point. 5 cm = 1 inch, 5 mm = .1 inch.
and just to confuse everyone: C to F. Take C, multiply by two, subtract the first digit and add 32.
20 degrees C X 2 = 40. minus 4 (the first digit in 40) = 36, add 32 =68 degrees Fahrenheit.
and just to confuse everyone: C to F. Take C, multiply by two, subtract the first digit and add 32.
20 degrees C X 2 = 40. minus 4 (the first digit in 40) = 36, add 32 =68 degrees Fahrenheit.
Boboro
Well-Known Member
Hell yea.
I'm just going to cheat. My calipers do mm or inches.
How much? I may lay a couple bills on that bet. LOL
leverhead
Well-Known Member
That's not cheating, adjustable wrenches will go both ways.
leverhead
Well-Known Member
Now that's cheating!
Ok, got in some briar blocks. Started cutting out my first pipe and ran into a big flaw. I'm going to go with it anyway for practice. Briar cost money. I also made another design change. Keeping it simple first go round.
Aaron
Well-Known Member
Hopefully most of that flaw will disappear as you get it shaped and if not, small flaws just add character.
BigCasino
Well-Known Member
I like the flaws as long as they don't affect the integrity of the pipe, I think they give a pipe character and an their own identity, I drill out the block and then shape, I heard shaping first is harder so I am afraid to try...haha, looks like you have a good start tho
I'm drilling first and then shaping. I squared the two sides that will be in the lathe jaws with a jointer and then a table saw. I cut the excess off the shank so I can turn that part round on the lathe. I'll knock the corners down with a rasp first. I'll round the end of the shank and the top of the bowl on the lathe and have something round to work to when I start shaping on the belt sander. It's alot like cheating.
Back from the shop. Holes drilled and rough shaped. The shank is oversize, I'm using a premade oval stem. I used a delrin tenon, resized the stem air hole, reshaped the bit and stem. I'm gluing the tenon in the stem and attaching an acrylic ring to stem at one time in the vise (socket goes around tenon). After the glue dries I'll attach stem to stummel and finish shaping with stem attached. Bowl is about there just need to go through the grits. The flaw got bigger but didn't enter the chamber or airway??? I can plug the chamber and blow thru the shank, no leaks. I can hide the flaw with rustication. The stem will have a slight bend as the bowl and shank are not at 90 degrees.
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