I've only used 'chempak' fertilizers last year and this year, but I swear by them. Chempak 2 high nitrogen feed NPK(25-15-15) usually 2 weeks after transplanting into the garden and then after another 2-3 weeks i give them chempak 3 fully balanced feed NPK(20-20-20) and then after another 2-3 weeks I'll give them the chempak high potash tomato feed NPK(11-9-30) and then flush them out for the last 3-weeks. Im also thinking that next year I might start with the fully balanced feed first and then give them the high nitrogen feed after 3 weeks or so.
I might try experiment with that this year then and see if the flavour profile of certain priming and plants changes with mature vs ripeness
Yeah i had this issue last year i lost around 40 leaves due to humidity being too low and temps being too high.
I’ve lost so many due to the low humidity that I finally built a humidity controlled color curing chamber. It’s was surprisingly easy and pretty hands off. I used on of those grow tents, a cheapo ultrasonic humidifier, and a cheap humidity controller from Amazon. Oh and tiny fan for air circulation. The only thing I had to do was occasionally fill up the humidifier.
That sounds like a plan. Maybe I’ll give that feeding schedule a try next season. Took a screen shoot in case. Thanks for the advice. Looks like you plants are benefiting from those feedings.
I have not had great luck stalk curing for cigar variety and here's why. Im an impatient prick, once the leaves are cured it is much more difficult to get them into high case to then prime them off the stalk. This could be done with enough time waiting for the leaves laying underlapped to gain moisture but at this stage Im just trying to get leaf strung up. So unfortunately the lower case leaves get damaged trying to prime off to string in the kiln. But, for my system all leaves are going to be strung up in hands so there isn't really any time savings to be had by stalk curing. For cigar I always think... filler is wrapper that didn't make the aesthetic cut.
