Steve's first outdoor grow

[Stevea]

Preface : I did a grow before this that was indoor (Not doing that again). The Havana 608 leaves have been in the kiln for one month. I plan on opening it up soon to take a few leaves out to pre roll a cigar for my first kids birth in approximately 9 days. Then running the kiln for another month.

Mistakes I have made : I should have started writing a grow log in a notebook sooner. I had the LED all spectrum lights to close to the plants. I fertilized the seeds which I should not have done. I should have grown more plants. I should have provocatively sprayed bug spray to the plants.

Next grow : I want to give the plants haircuts and find new seeds

For my first out door grow I'm growing Little Crittenden (4 plants), Criollo 98 (10 plants) and Habano 2000 (10 plants). I used a old cardboard box and cut holes in it for some solo cups I had. I poked holes in them and put a rain gutter on a angle below so the run off would empty into the drain. I then used 6x42w = 1400 watt led all spectrum lights on a 16hr on 8hr off cycle. I did this because I already had the leds, my wife did want to see the plants in any area she would be in and I don't get very much exterior sunlight coming into the house.



48 days later and a few thinings the plants out grew the solo cups and I transferred them into 5 gal pots which I put fertilizer about 1/2 down the pot and then layered with dirt.


13 days later I noticed a few types of bugs around my leaves. The most threatening I believe where baby grasshoppers. I used Captain Joes Dead Bug Spray at the recommendation of a friend. I think its been keeping them in check. I think I might end up loosing a plant or two. I have started to top some of them today.


About a week ago I started to germinate 12 more plants. Which will be more Habano 2000 since thats the only seed I have now. I realize that these 12 might not get as big or be that developed since I’m starting them so late but these grasshoppers have gotten to many of my leaves.


I also made this time line from what I have read on this forum and through searching the internet. Any and all criticism is welcome.


Thanks for reading.

 

[Stevea]

Sorry for the off layout. I accidentally hit submit and can't seem to edit the post. Forums are still new to me. Here are some other pictures I wanted to post.

 

[Charly]

We all do a lot of mistakes (and not only the first year), this is part of the learning process.
Keep up the good work

 

[Knucklehead]

My “mistakes I made” would be longer than my grow blogs, so you’re doing pretty good so far.
As the season progresses, it will be helpful for everyone if you could narrow down your general location to at least your state. USA’s climate can be quite varied at times. If we have to guess whether you are dealing with an Arizona desert or a tropical rainforest you are going to be getting wildly different answers to your questions especially in terms of curing or how how often to water, etc. What works well for me in Alabama could cause mold, rot, or green drying where you live so there are not many one fit all answers.
Congratulations on your coming child. Let us know when it arrives and we’ll all join in with a cigar. Best of luck.

 

[Stevea]

Im in California hardiness zone 9b. If anyone is familiar with California I'm in the east bay.

 

[Oldfella]

Good luck with your new grow. I been growing for the last 5 years. I'm still learning. I get more information here. I thought I knew it all. NOT!!!
Keep up the good work, brows this site, try stuff, and you'll get there. Keep up the pics. Good luck with your grow.
Cheers Oldfella

 

[Stevea]

I have toped some of the plants and just started priming a leaf or two. It looks like the Little Crittenden and Habano 2000 are doing well. I'll be collecting seeds from my best plants for another year. Three of my Criollo 98 which are next to each other im a little confused with. It has these brown spots which I tried looking up unsuccessfully. I was wondering what you guys might think it is. I used the same potting soil for all my plants with a small amount of fertilizer in all of them. I have sprayed all the plants with Captain Jacks Dead Bug Brew and I have not exceed the dose or the duration in between spraying. I have also sprayed at night time. I have the plants on a timed water system and they receive about 1/2 sun 1/2 shade.

Can I still use these down the road to make smokeable leaves ? or are they infected with some thing and I need to toss the plant ?

Thank you

 

[deluxestogie]

I can't identify it. It might be Tobacco Ringspot Virus:

tobacco ringspot virus (TRSV) Nepovirus TRSV

I would not be hesitant to smoke it.

Bob

 

[Knucklehead]

I’m not sure either but here are some images from the University of Kentucky with all sorts of field disease images, transplant diseases, curing problems and included in the UK link is a link to IPM images which is also an image gallery I find very helpful. The next link is to North Carolina State University images of nutrient deficiencies. I have these links saved to my iPad and laptop and refer to them often in looking at weird leaves on the forum.

Image Gallery | Burley Tobacco Extension

burleytobaccoextension.ca.uky.edu

Tobacco Diagnostic Key | p1 | NC State

 

[Stevea]

Thank you all

 

[Oldfella]

Thank you all

I found something similar on some of my leaves. Somegirl reckons there's a itibity worm in between the leaf top and bottom.Must have better eyes than me.

 

[Stevea]

I might be at a total loss this year for this grow. I received a email from bonide the makers of the bug killer I used on my plants. Captain Jacks Dead Bug Brew. I mentioned I used 15ml of product in 32oz of water and applied for a total of 2 times 10 days apart. I related to washing the leaves then harvesting the next day because I thought the product was displaced by water. They said in the email “Captain Jacks cannot be used on tobacco plants”. I’m extremely let down because I was looking foreword to this years harvest and spent so much time on it. Now I don’t know what to do with all the tobacco except to scrap it all. They recommend Diatomaceous Earth for future use.

 

[deluxestogie]

Diatomaceous Earth is just microscopic, very sharp rock dust that injures insects and slugs that pass over it on the soil. Captain Jacks probably did not seek approval for use on tobacco for public-relations reasons. If it is recommended for tomatoes, then it is safe for tobacco. You should observe the "interval prior to harvest". If you've already harvested the leaf, just allow it to color-cure, and age for a couple of months.

Bob

 

[Stevea]

Diatomaceous Earth is just microscopic, very sharp rock dust that injures insects and slugs that pass over it on the soil. Captain Jacks probably did not seek approval for use on tobacco for public-relations reasons. If it is recommended for tomatoes, then it is safe for tobacco. You should observe the "interval prior to harvest". If you've already harvested the leaf, just allow it to color-cure, and age for a couple of months.

Bob

Thank you for the info. I try to research before asking a question. The product that I did use is safe and from my understanding recommended for tomatoes. The only active ingredient is spinosad which I know many people use and to my knowledge has been used since the 90s. I plan on doing exactly what you recommended.

 

[Stevea]

Today I primed some decent leaves. I don't know if you can really see them but I primed them base on yellowing tips, browning edges, browning sides or heavy yellowing through out. I did this during a hot part of the day and I'm leaving them in the shade until the garage cools off. Later they will be pile cured in a box thats in the garage. I think this next outdoor grow I'm going to have to haircut the tobacco prior to translating outside. I have noticed that not all of them are ready to be topped (you can't see the flower buds). Some leaves are ready to be primed in different positions on the stock too. Some stalks are too thin and some leaves are tiny through out. But the biggest lesson so far is to plant way more then you think you need. I have lost a lot of leaves to insects and wind. Best forum around !

 

[Stevea]

I have been doing the priming, pile curing and then hanging process now for about a week. I must say the pile curing in a cardboard box works wonders for color curing the leaves. I looked through pictures of mold and the ones I found appeared on dried leaves but I couldn't find any on live ones. I try rotating the leaves in the pile once a day. However the other day I went to the hospital for 4 days to be with my wife. We had our first kid (son). So when I got back I didn't get to rotate the leaves as I was so now I think I have mold. I have seen pin point black spots on the stem of some but not a ton. Im currently pile curing those. Some lamas have green spots on the pile cured leaves. I don't have a temperature/ humidity gauge in the box but I haven't thought it would be nessesary. Mold on the stem doesn't concern me but on the lamina it does. I think Im just going to hang dry it all then evaluate the leaves after to look for fuzzy mold on the lamina then.

 

[deluxestogie]

If it smells moldy, then it is mold. I can't really tell the difference between residual green and possible mold in the photos.

Bob

 

[Knucklehead]

I tried box curing my first year and my problem was rot. The lamina turned black in spots and the stems turned mushy. I don’t see rot and I can’t tell about mold from here. As a diagnostic tool, you could mix a solution of 50/50 water/vinegar and mist one leaf with it. If its mold it should just disappear in few hours.

 

[Oldfella]

I have been doing the priming, pile curing and then hanging process now for about a week. I must say the pile curing in a cardboard box works wonders for color curing the leaves. I looked through pictures of mold and the ones I found appeared on dried leaves but I couldn't find any on live ones. I try rotating the leaves in the pile once a day. However the other day I went to the hospital for 4 days to be with my wife. We had our first kid (son). So when I got back I didn't get to rotate the leaves as I was so now I think I have mold. I have seen pin point black spots on the stem of some but not a ton. Im currently pile curing those. Some lamas have green spots on the pile cured leaves. I don't have a temperature/ humidity gauge in the box but I haven't thought it would be nessesary. Mold on the stem doesn't concern me but on the lamina it does. I think Im just going to hang dry it all then evaluate the leaves after to look for fuzzy mold on the lamina then.

Congrats on the new addition to the family. As for the mold you could try a 1% solution of Hydrogen peroxide. As Said all over the forum if it is mold it will disappear. I use it and seems to work.
Cheers Oldfella

 

[Charly]

Congratulations for your son, take good care of him and his mom