Buy Tobacco Leaf Online | Whole Leaf Tobacco

Tobaccofieldsforever 2022 Grow Log

Tobaccofieldsforever

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2021
Messages
684
Points
93
Location
Ravenna, Ohio
My germination occurs for a single variety of seed (liberally sprinkled) in a jar of starter mix. I have a separate, labeled germination jar for each variety. The only transfer occurs when I move germinated seedlings into their planned cells in a 1020 tray.

Transferring a tiny seedling with forceps requires a light touch. It's like lifting a tiny piece of cloud (Don't squeeze!), then gently dropping it into a sufficiently deep divot in its cell's soil mix. I never grasp the seedling directly with the forceps, but separate and lift the bit of soil into which it has put down its tiny root. As with rolling a cigar, anyone can practice and learn the touch.

Bob
Yes, I am a bit too rough with mine, using tweezers and grabbing the stalk directly…I will try your technique. Why do you germinate in a jar? I apologize for cluttering this grow blog up and am done with my questions now…thank you.
Edit: to clarify, I mean why germinate in a jar rather than germinating directly in 1020 tray, eliminating the transfer step and only having to thin. (Not criticizing but trying to gather information to better my germination stage)
 
Last edited:

deluxestogie

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
25,606
Points
113
Location
near Blacksburg, VA
Tobacco seeds can jump many inches simply from electrostatic charge. I will not sprinkle seeds into my 1020 trays. A cup or jar can be placed alone on a counter, and sprinkled with seed from a single variety without risk of misplaced seeds. I prefer transferring germinated seedlings to the disruption of plucking surplus seedlings out of their intended growing cell. This is all just personal preference.

Bob
 

Tobaccofieldsforever

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2021
Messages
684
Points
93
Location
Ravenna, Ohio
Tobacco seeds can jump many inches simply from electrostatic charge. I will not sprinkle seeds into my 1020 trays. A cup or jar can be placed alone on a counter, and sprinkled with seed from a single variety without risk of misplaced seeds. I prefer transferring germinated seedlings to the disruption of plucking surplus seedlings out of their intended growing cell. This is all just personal preference.

Bob
Ok, thank you much! I had actually read of a member fearful of tobacco seed jumping cells while sprinkling. I use the cells that come in packs of 4 and the trays hold 12 of them. When sprinkling seed I do it to a 4 pack, alone on the counter and that entire 4 pack is dedicated to the same variety. Thank you for moving this thread to my grow log by the way and thank you for all the information.
 

deluxestogie

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
25,606
Points
113
Location
near Blacksburg, VA
When I'm setting up my germination jars, I'm usually taking advantage of the scant amount of seedling mix left over from the previous year. That gives me a couple of additional weeks to get off my butt, and purchase enough mix components to be able to fill my 1020 trays. It's also much easier to fill a few jars, rather than clean, sanitize and set-up my 1020 trays. So the big step of starting germination is tiny enough to get me moving, and motivated enough to follow through on yet another year of tobacco growing.

Bob
 

Tobaccofieldsforever

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2021
Messages
684
Points
93
Location
Ravenna, Ohio
I am experiencing little to no growth of my seedlings ( they have grown but it is seemingly very slowly.) They all seem to be frozen at a certain size and not getting any bigger. They also seem to have lost a lot of color. I am thinking low light conditions as of late. I rely on Mother Nature (they are in a window) and there is snow on the ground again today and overcast skies AGAIN! Could it be the “soil” (I have trouble calling it that because it is FULL of wood chips!!) here is the soil I used. What do people think? I used a very weak concentration of all purpose miracle grow but have never had issues with that. I wonder if I am over watering…20D12D5A-8AF7-48CF-863E-47FEAC94CBA3.jpeg7508F816-9947-4609-AC21-59EDF4B6F22A.jpeg
 

deluxestogie

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
25,606
Points
113
Location
near Blacksburg, VA
I started my tobacco seed at the end of February. I often photograph the bigger ones. By contrast, here are my Corojo 99 seedlings.

Garden20220403_6311_seedlingsAt1Month_02_600.jpg


Some varieties seem to leap from the soil, while others languish for weeks, then explode. Yours seem fine. (The soil mix seems horrid!)

Bob
 

Tobaccofieldsforever

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2021
Messages
684
Points
93
Location
Ravenna, Ohio
I started my tobacco seed at the end of February. I often photograph the bigger ones. By contrast, here are my Corojo 99 seedlings.

Garden20220403_6311_seedlingsAt1Month_02_600.jpg


Some varieties seem to leap from the soil, while others languish for weeks, then explode. Yours seem fine. (The soil mix seems horrid!)

Bob
Yes, the soil is awful!! It was purchased as part of a promotion…never again!!
 
Last edited:

Knucklehead

Moderator
Founding Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2012
Messages
12,677
Points
113
Location
NE Alabama
These were started around March 10th I believe. Hard to get a detailed pic of all of them so I took a close one of some of them.View attachment 41139
In the past when mine have been pale and leaning toward the yellow shade, I would add one tablespoon of epsom salts to a gallon of water. Epsom salts is magnesium sulfate and if there is a magnesium deficiency it inhibits the uptake of available nutrients. It won't hurt a thing and could help the color and response to the nutrients you added. I saw visible change in about three days.
 

Tobaccofieldsforever

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2021
Messages
684
Points
93
Location
Ravenna, Ohio
I started my tobacco seed at the end of February. I often photograph the bigger ones. By contrast, here are my Corojo 99 seedlings.

Garden20220403_6311_seedlingsAt1Month_02_600.jpg


Some varieties seem to leap from the soil, while others languish for weeks, then explode. Yours seem fine. (The soil mix seems horrid!)

Bob
How exactly do you water bob? My setup this year is geared toward bottom watering as I have heard it is highly preferable. I have a solid 1020 tray and a lattice 1020 tray sitting inside of it that holds 12 4 pack cell trays. Do you leave the water sitting in the solid tray for the plants to access as they see fit? I am much more comfortable with classic top watering but would like to try and expand my horizons. Should I just add fertilizer to the bottom water and let it sit there? @skychaser, you said you use all purpose miracle grow and this is what I use as well. How and when do you apply it to your seedlings? How often? Thank you in advance!
 

deluxestogie

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
25,606
Points
113
Location
near Blacksburg, VA
My tray setup:

Garden20220305_6258_1020Trays_assembly_600.jpg


The holey tray allows excess water to drain into the no-hole tray beneath it. I use the lattice tray to stiffen the assembly, so that I can lift it more easily.

My starting mix is 2/3 Miracle-Gro Peat; 1/6 Miracle-Gro Perlite; 1/6 Vermiculite. This combination contains ample fertilizer to last through transplant to the field. [Other brands and preparations may not. I have experimentally verified that replacing the Miracle-Gro Peat with coconut coir does not grow seedlings as well.] I don't add fertilizer to the trays. I water by lifting out one of the insert 4-packs, and pouring in about 1 quart of water every few days—as needed.

Bottom watering minimizes "damping off" (i.e. fungal damage) of the tiniest seedlings, and encourages a deeper root system. When using pre-fertilized growing media (like Miracle-Gro), nearly all issues with seedlings relate to:
  1. frequency and method of watering or
  2. adequacy of light exposure.
When the seedling leaves are properly clipped as often as required, then watering needs are reduced. Big, pretty leaves transpire a lot of water.

Bob
 

skychaser

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2012
Messages
1,117
Points
113
Location
NE Washington
Never let them stand in water. That will drown them. Ironically, over watering makes them turn yellow and look like they need more water or fertilizer. Top watering is fine as long as you are giving them enough to soak all the way down and drip out the bottom a little. If the soil isn't soaked all the way down the roots won't grow down. The biggest down side of top watering is that it may flatten tiny seedlings. Once they get to 2-3 weeks old and get a little size to them I water from the top now and then. It helps toughen up the plants stems and get them ready for rain and life in the real world.

I water like Bob does but used a scaled up version. My greenhouse is built with benches I can flood and water from the bottom up. I can do dozens of trays at a time that way. I only water when the soil on top starts to appear a little dry. A good starting soil should wick the water from the bottom up to the top and make it look moist in about a 1/2 or less. Once the soil is moist again I drain the water out. I have 3/8 inch wood slats in the bottom of my benches to keep the trays off the bottom a little. When the bench is drained the flats are not in the water at all, but there is still a small layer of water under them. That helps keep an even humidity near the plants and provides a more even temperature layer below them. And it makes a good habitat for the little frogs that always find their way into the greenhouse. They are natures way of aphid and bug control. Plus I like frogs. lol They never hurt anything.

I use Miracle Grow all purpose fertilizer mixed like it says on the box. I don't use fertilizer until week 3 or 4. Then I use it about every other watering on tobaccos. I fertilize every watering with tomatoes. A good potting mix will have all the nutrients the plants need for the first few weeks. If you really want to make it easy, use one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Miracle-Gro-...Y3HMXHV/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B06Y3HMXHV&psc=1 Makes it all stupid simple. No mixing, no thinking required. One pack of fertilizer will make about 40 gallons of water.

I never clip my plants. Never saw a need to do it and I don't have the time to fuss with them all. But is doesn't hurt to do it if you want too. To each his own. And personally I hate peat pots. They don't work well for bottom watering and you must tear away any part of the pot that is above ground when planting out or they act like a wick and suck the water away to the air. The peat below ground never stays wet enough for the roots to grow through them. Also, I have planted out tobaccos that were started in 128 hole plug trays, 4 packs, 6 packs and 4 inch pots. The bigger the pot, the bigger the plant at planting time. But a month later there is no difference between them. The only advantage of a bigger pot is a bigger plant going into the field that can stand up to weather a little better and birds pecking on them. All I use now days is 6 packs. I seed right into them and the plants stay in them until planting day.

Today is the day I seed my tobaccos. 8 weeks to my last frost date. Those of us in the northern tier are always last. Lots to do today so it's back to work now.

Cheers
 

deluxestogie

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
25,606
Points
113
Location
near Blacksburg, VA
Many commercial tobacco growers clip their seedlings using a lawn mower that moves along adjustable-height tracks above the float trays. The vacuum of the whirring blade lifts up the leaves beyond the growth tip. Whack! This makes the seedlings more compatible with mechanical planters. For me, it makes sturdier plants that demand less watering in the trays, as well as less watering once transplanted.

Bob
 

Tobaccofieldsforever

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2021
Messages
684
Points
93
Location
Ravenna, Ohio
@deluxestogie These ones. They may still be alive but I’m not positive though they are quite shriveled. I bottom water by putting a lattice 1020 tray in a solid one and remove the excess water after they have soaked up enough that the top of dirt appears wet. I have top watered on occasion when some cells dry up faster than others though. Their sun exposure has been very little lately due to the weather and they have been under a 5000 lumen LED shop light (about 5 inches away). Today has been particularly sunny and I had the dome on the plants. Once I removed it, I noticed the shriveled (harrow velvet) seedlings. The dirt in that particular cell was a bit dry so that may be the reason…is there a heat range seedlings should be kept in (more interested in the ceiling of that range)? Thanks for any advice!2317D699-BAF1-462E-B88D-9008A348E1B6.jpeg
By these ones, I mean:6EDE1AD7-2DFD-43DA-B608-02A3E236ADC5.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Knucklehead

Moderator
Founding Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2012
Messages
12,677
Points
113
Location
NE Alabama
That looks like clean soil but is there any chance there is a stick or piece of bark under those seedlings? The cell seems to contain less soil than the others so if there is a chunk with an air gap under the chunk, then the roots may not have a place to go. That cell may also dry out faster.
 
Top