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deluxestogie Grow Log 2013

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Boboro

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The horn worms I got used to and didnt spray unless I had a pop. exploison. The bud worms are hard to find and I have let them do a lot of damage. Went to spray this morin an had no worm killer just a empty bottle.
 

DGBAMA

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Thanks for that in #200 Bob. I had pulled a couple of the little green guys this week from under leaves and did not think they were hornworms, just knew they had to go. Identifyig them as budworms, I just rewalked the patch and found 3 more down in budheads where they can do the most damage and completely hidden from view.

Will the plant recover? and is BT also effective for these little pests? If so I will be spraying this week.
 

deluxestogie

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I believe BT will kill all caterpillars that feed on tobacco.

Hornworms, even the tiniest of them, have a little curved "horn" on the butt (like a bass-akwards unicorn). You can lift the tiny ones by the horn--it's not a stinger, but it will just break off of the larger ones. Make sure they are squished when you're done.

Budworms cause a lot of damage to young leaf. After you find and kill the worm(s), those leaves will always look awful. Newer leaf that forms above the damage will usually be normal.

With your bagged heads, inspect them regularly. Sometimes a budworm will get in there (presumably the egg was laid prior to bagging). If you find even a single budworm inside the bag, it needs to be removed and killed, and each seed pod inspected for a hole (about the size of a BB). Any affected pods should be removed before replacing the bag. Since a budworm does not migrate from its host plant, this is not likely to present a problem with cross-pollination.

Bob
 

deluxestogie

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So many things to do. Too few dry days.

Today, I started this seasons first flue-curing batch in the Cozy Can. Against my own advice, I put in batches of two different varieties: Çelikhan and Prilep P66-9/7. (The Prilep varieties are exceeding 30 leaves per plant.) We'll see how Oriental varieties flue-cure. I'll post pics and the results next week.

Garden20130712_765_Celikhan_leafSize_300.jpg
Garden20130712_764_Prilep_P66-7_9_leafSize_300.jpg


This evening, I primed the lugs from my Bolivia Criollo Black (BCB). The mud lugs were hung a few days ago. What a crazy year. The mud lugs are just about color cured, starting from green. The same day that I did the BCB mud lugs, I also primed the mud lugs of the Prilep P66-9/7. Somehow, those flash-dried entirely green. The other Prilep variety mud lugs are curing normally.

Three days ago, I took off all the wilted, yellow bottom leaf from the flooded Harrow Velvet. It's all bright yellow, and seems to be curing normally.

I'm working on a simple, see-through Perique press. Once I've selected what leaf will go into it, and have pics of the process, I'll start a separate thread for that project. It requires no construction, takes up no more room than a cookie jar, and requires no press. Every pipe smoker should be able to make a small batch of Perique from just about any home-grown leaf.

Bob
 

chillardbee

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I can't wait to hear about the perique press. I'm growing perique now (about 65 plants) and I'm going to order a 10 liter oak barrel to press it in by using a 20 ton hydrolic jack. I won't be sure of how much pressure I am applying but hopefully it works.
 

workhorse_01

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Make sure you message Bigbonner. He made a press out of a barrel. I don't remember how it turned out, but if it didn't go good, he can tell you what not to do. On another note, yall don't know what oak barrels are for!
I can't wait to hear about the perique press. I'm growing perique now (about 65 plants) and I'm going to order a 10 liter oak barrel to press it in by using a 20 ton hydrolic jack. I won't be sure of how much pressure I am applying but hopefully it works.
 

workhorse_01

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Pictures please!
So many things to do. Too few dry days.

Today, I started this seasons first flue-curing batch in the Cozy Can. Against my own advice, I put in batches of two different varieties: Çelikhan and Prilep P66-9/7. (The Prilep varieties are exceeding 30 leaves per plant.) We'll see how Oriental varieties flue-cure. I'll post pics and the results next week.

This evening, I primed the lugs from my Bolivia Criollo Black (BCB). The mud lugs were hung a few days ago. What a crazy year. The mud lugs are just about color cured, starting from green. The same day that I did the BCB mud lugs, I also primed the mud lugs of the Prilep P66-9/7. Somehow, those flash-dried entirely green. The other Prilep variety mud lugs are curing normally.

Three days ago, I took off all the wilted, yellow bottom leaf from the flooded Harrow Velvet. It's all bright yellow, and seems to be curing normally.

I'm working on a simple, see-through Perique press. Once I've selected what leaf will go into it, and have pics of the process, I'll start a separate thread for that project. It requires no construction, takes up no more room than a cookie jar, and requires no press. Every pipe smoker should be able to make a small batch of Perique from just about any home-grown leaf.

Bob
 
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AmaxB

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How do you identify the Crows Foot?
Is it there all the time or just when buds appear?
Thought I figured it out but am lost again, some plants look like they have one while others don't.
I always enjoy the Deluxe Threads.
 

deluxestogie

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The crowsfoot develops as part of the budding process. (There can actually be many of them on one plant, but the dominant one is what is considered the crowsfoot.) The shape, length and proportions differ with the variety as well as how you've suckered the top of the plant. Sometimes it's tight, and really looks like a crowsfoot. On other plants, like the one below, it may be fairly spread out.

Garden20130713_768_crowsfoot_Tabasqueno_300.jpg


Below, my Bolivia Criollo Black mud lugs have been hanging in the shed for only about 4 days.

Garden20130713_766_Bolivia_MLugsColorCuring_300.jpg


chillardbee said:
...using a 20 ton hydrolic jack...
The pressure needed is in the neighborhood of 30-50 psi. Just enough to express the juices from the lamina. The volume of the barrel doesn't matter; only the surface area of the compression surface (e.g. usually the top).

Area = Pi * r[sup]2[/sup]
Pi =~ 3.14
r = 1/2 diameter of barrel
Barrel diameter = d

Area = 3.14 * (1/2 * d) * (1/2 * d)

for the weight (or pressure) required for 30 psi, multiply the area (in square inches) times 30.

I don't know what you get if the pressure is considerably greater than 50 or 60 psi.

Bob
 

AmaxB

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Thanks Deluxe
No wonder I got myself confused the photo looks nothing like a crows foot. Think I got it now...the lowest bloom stem is the crows foot start -crowsfoot
EDIT: I must know this for my measurements.
 

chillardbee

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for the weight (or pressure) required for 30 psi, multiply the area (in square inches) times 30.

I don't know what you get if the pressure is considerably greater than 50 or 60 psi.

Bob

I've read in several places that the pressure applied in the process is about 2000#s near about using turn jacks. those are the big 45 gallon barrels i believe But what PSI that would be over all is ? to me and would be my guess that it would be 30-50 PSI. With the formula you have there, that would probably answer the question. For my little barrels, it will probably need less pressure.

I'm assuming that oak will have the same effect on the baccy as that it has on wine, whiskey, ect,ect. In the process of fermenting, there is alcohol being made and of course the CO2 as well that can be seen by the bubbles that rise to the top. I can't find it now but there was a good article I was reading about the properties of oak and the flavours they add to spirits and wine.
 

Jitterbugdude

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Don't get hung up on the PSI needed. Just press until you see juice come up to the top of your container. At that point you have plenty of pressure. Keep it simple and don't overthink it.
 

johnlee1933

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I've read in several places that the pressure applied in the process is about 2000#s near about using turn jacks. those are the big 45 gallon barrels i believe But what PSI that would be over all is ? to me and would be my guess that it would be 30-50 PSI. With the formula you have there, that would probably answer the question. For my little barrels, it will probably need less pressure.

I'm assuming that oak will have the same effect on the baccy as that it has on wine, whiskey, ect,ect. In the process of fermenting, there is alcohol being made and of course the CO2 as well that can be seen by the bubbles that rise to the top. I can't find it now but there was a good article I was reading about the properties of oak and the flavours they add to spirits and wine.
I just measured a 55 gal plastic drum and the ID was~20". since A(rea) = π X R(adius)² where R=10 and π=3.14 then A=314 sq." At 30 lbs./sq." P=314 X 30 = 9420 lbs.



Lets assume the ID of an oak, 45 gal barrel is a little smaller. Then just change R to whatever fits your drum and do the same calculation.

I've seem pics of the perique barrels and presses and IMO #2000 is too little for that size barrel and the #30.sq. in.
 

Boboro

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I think you will have to wax any thing wood. Bacca juice is sticky stuff and if it pressed and left sittin for a long while its not easy to get out.
 

Jitterbugdude

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With Perique you press it for about a week then unpress it, rearrange the leaves and repeat a few more times. It sticks a little bit but nothing to worry about. The problem I've had is that it makes such a hard brick it is difficult to un fold the leaves.
 

deluxestogie

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In pressing folded "books" of color-cured leaf using my cheese press, I noted that the lamina begin to bruise at about 3 psi, which was surprising. The figure of 30-50 psi was derived from descriptions of the dimensions and weights (by Killebrew and by Garner) of traditional Perique methods and equipment. I'm guessing that the method works just fine with pressures lower than 30-50 psi.

I agree with JBD. My setup will be see-through, so I guess I'll see (since I won't be measuring the pressure).

Bob
 
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