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New very old rolling station. My late Great grandmother’s writing desk.

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Snowblithe

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The first time @ChinaVoodoo rolled me a cigar, however many years ago that was, I was intrigued by his antique desk rolling station. It looked like every rolling desk I’ve seen in videos from Cuba. When I started rolling cigars I remembered that and started looking for something similar. Then I remembered that my dad inherited my GG Buchanan’s writing desk. I asked my dad if he was using it and he said that it is broken and I could have it! I picked it up this past weekend and visited @ChinaVoodoo while I was in town. Rather than shooting the desk because of the broken leg, I tried to fix it. Here it is with my three-year-old giving me pointers on how to approach the problem. F1470A44-05A2-4A27-8471-F53C28AC4974.jpegAnyhow, some drilling and some epoxy later the desk was back on its feet. But I found another problem. A85334CA-148A-400A-804B-261BFA645BAA.jpeg 7A2AE8FB-EFAF-4A9C-AF29-5636171119A5.jpegI have to replace the support hinges, but earlier today I was itching to test it out and simply pulled out the top drawer halfway and stuck some rope in as a spacer, which was enough to support the foldy bit. It was good enough to nip through a couple robustos.
 

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The first time @ChinaVoodoo rolled me a cigar, however many years ago that was, I was intrigued by his antique desk rolling station. It looked like every rolling desk I’ve seen in videos from Cuba. When I started rolling cigars I remembered that and started looking for something similar. Then I remembered that my dad inherited my GG Buchanan’s writing desk. I asked my dad if he was using it and he said that it is broken and I could have it! I picked it up this past weekend and visited @ChinaVoodoo while I was in town. Rather than shooting the desk because of the broken leg, I tried to fix it. Here it is with my three-year-old giving me pointers on how to approach the problem. View attachment 34006Anyhow, some drilling and some epoxy later the desk was back on its feet. But I found another problem. View attachment 34007 View attachment 34010I have to replace the support hinges, but earlier today I was itching to test it out and simply pulled out the top drawer halfway and stuck some rope in as a spacer, which was enough to support the foldy bit. It was good enough to nip through a couple robustos.
Can you determine the material of the broken piece I’m seeing? Take that piece off and run it to a radiator repair shop for brazing.
 

Snowblithe

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Can you determine the material of the broken piece I’m seeing? Take that piece off and run it to a radiator repair shop for brazing.
I assume its just brass, though I kind of want to replace it with steel. Something heavier duty as cigar rolling is more high impact than penmanship. Kind of a resto-mod thing; better leverage by extending the anchor angles. were I to use these anchors I would have to move the pivots anyway to make the fold out surface level. I appreciate the suggestion though. I wouldn't have thought of that.
 

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Here are a couple of quick options I found on Rockler.com. We used their hardware quite a bit building cabinets and furniture. The two pictured are adjustable so you can get the desk top flat. If you feel you need even further support, I saw some decorative chains that would work in addition to the supports. There may be several more options, I just did a quick breeze through looking at hinges.


 

Snowblithe

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Thanks for that, @Knucklehead. Looks like some good options.
On a different note do you (or anyone) know what finish might cause this? The surface clouds over and gets waxy when wetted. This is from a semi damp rag left on it over night. Would it be tung oil, or some similar waxy finish? I’m considering sanding and re-finishing at least the work surface. 2E9DEAAE-C60E-4207-81D6-ABF49802C988.jpeg
 

Knucklehead

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Thanks for that, @Knucklehead. Looks like some good options.
On a different note do you (or anyone) know what finish might cause this? The surface clouds over and gets waxy when wetted. This is from a semi damp rag left on it over night. Would it be tung oil, or some similar waxy finish? I’m considering sanding and re-finishing at least the work surface. View attachment 34016
My guess is lacquer. My father and uncle used spray lacquer on furniture and cabinets and most of the production cabinet makers use it because spraying is fast to apply and lacquer dries extremely quickly. Sand and recoat in hours. I used linseed oil on gunstocks due to tradition and the way the shine glowed from within the wood rather than a glare from a top coat. Linseed oil can take weeks to fill the grain and to do correctly and hand rub it with wool felt. Very, very slow dry.
 

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Chest of drawers my father and I built. All the furniture sprayed with lacquer. Mahogany.
We made the door and window moldings on a molding machine and the rosettes in the corners with a drill press.
FD94FBB3-FA67-4EE6-8D6D-D3AC6C34BEB8.jpeg

A Secretary desk built by my uncle. He used to restore antiques and could duplicate missing pieces. My father worked for him while attending college. This is made with Cherry.
277E27F5-AB57-4837-A254-A1BB8BA9F9FC.jpeg

A China cabinet and table and chairs built by my wife and my father. There’s more everywhere. More Mahogany.
F1A39BB3-DF99-4F22-8692-1E7A4891BC0E.jpegFD72C218-DE1D-4757-B02E-52246FD2B90A.jpeg
 

Snowblithe

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Chest of drawers my father and I built. All the furniture sprayed with lacquer. Mahogany.
We made the door and window moldings on a molding machine and the rosettes in the corners with a drill press.
View attachment 34018

A Secretary desk built by my uncle. He used to restore antiques and could duplicate missing pieces. My father worked for him while attending college. This is made with Cherry.
View attachment 34019

A China cabinet and table and chairs built by my wife and my father. There’s more everywhere. More Mahogany.
View attachment 34020View attachment 34021
Beautiful work!
 

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I know and understand very little about finishing bare wood. Decades ago, I finished a bare wood, oak coffee table with several coats of matte finish polyurethane. I chose that because I knew and understood very little about finishing bare wood--and it was really quick and easy. You could put coffee cups and ice cubes and probably old car batteries onto it, and it would remain unblemished, after wiping with a damp cloth. I wouldn't dare use it as a finish for a cutting surface. But that's not what you would be doing.

Bob
 

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If I were to recommend a finish for you to do yourself at home without spray equipment, it would be Minwax’s Wipe On Poly. You wipe it on with a rag. It’s not as messy as using a brush and it’s thin so it soaks into the wood. No brush marks. It gives a finish resembling rubbed in oil but has that durable protection that Bob experienced with the polyurethane. I’ve used it on all kinds of stuff. It‘s easy and is ready for sanding and second coat next day with sufficient heat. Two coats will do it. Different sheens, satin or gloss.

 

Snowblithe

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Oh yeah, there are too many small creatures in the house to be messing around with spraying. Wipe on is my favourite way of finishing wood. I have a little experience using polymerised Tung oil on briar pipes. I liked working with it. I've never used Polyurethane.
 
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