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The Story of Jessica's Fantastic 2014 =)

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JessicaNicot

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ok, so have you change seeding to float tray in greenhouse, yes?

yes, we transplant the seedlings into individual cells in float trays. for my accessions, I use the 200 cell trays (rather than the standard 288 cell trays).
http://www.carolinagreenhouses.com/trays.html

the reason we have this two step process is to prevent accidental contamination when hand seeding trays. for one, it is very easy to lose track of your position in the 288 trays, and with pots, you can pull an individual pot out, shake in some seed and then put it back without worrying that seed from one bounced into its neighbors.
 

Nikfits

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Nice looking little babies there.

At 850 pots, is that 850 varieties of Tobacco or Tobacco + other types of seedlings? I know you may have answered this question already.

Lots of luck on your grow season!!!

Gary
 

SmokesAhoy

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How do you separate your sprouts after they get to the phase in your last picture? I am always trying different ways to reduce root damage at this point and I can lose valuable weeks if I choose the wrong sprout to transplant.
 

JessicaNicot

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At 850 pots, is that 850 varieties of Tobacco or Tobacco + other types of seedlings? I know you may have answered this question already.

there are only 250 germplasm plots, the rest is for breeding purposes. normally its all solely tobacco, but sometimes we do a field demonstration as part of a class and so we have a couple plots of some of the proposed Nicotiana tabacum progenitor species (N. tomentosa, N. sylvestris, N. otophora, N. tomentosiformis) as well as a couple plots of "synthetic tobacco" (man-made hybrids of the previously listed species). there are other crops growing out on the research station (corn, soybean, sorghum, peanuts, sweet potatoes, strawberries, melons, apples, etc) but we are not involved in those.
 

JessicaNicot

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How do you separate your sprouts after they get to the phase in your last picture? I am always trying different ways to reduce root damage at this point and I can lose valuable weeks if I choose the wrong sprout to transplant.

there isn't much need to worry about root damage when they are very small because tobacco is really hardy. we try to get most of the root, but if you break a few its not a big deal if the plants remain well watered. if you want you can run a simple experiment for yourself by planting into pots seedlings with full, partial and very limited root systems. if you keep them well watered they should all grow up just fine. you can even cut all the roots off of a plant that is like 5 weeks old, place it so the base of the stalk is in water (but not the leaves) and it will grow new roots!
 

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there isn't much need to worry about root damage when they are very small because tobacco is really hardy. we try to get most of the root, but if you break a few its not a big deal if the plants remain well watered. if you want you can run a simple experiment for yourself by planting into pots seedlings with full, partial and very limited root systems. if you keep them well watered they should all grow up just fine. you can even cut all the roots off of a plant that is like 5 weeks old, place it so the base of the stalk is in water (but not the leaves) and it will grow new roots!

Excellent info Jessica, you just made my future life much comfortable in growing mathers
 

Markw

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They look lovely little plants there Jessica.Just a quick question, at how many days would you be looking at moving them into the float trays.
 

JessicaNicot

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we are actually scheduled to transplant them into the float trays on Wednesday. that will be 19 days after seeding.
 

Brown Thumb

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Thank You Jessica for all the info. You give to FTT. Them starts look awesome and to BIG to transplant without killing them I would have thought.
And I used to worry about the Hurting the Stinking Roots. Go Figure.
You All down there at the NC Plasm have a Super Grow Year.
BT
 

JessicaNicot

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ok, so I've been really slack about my grow blog this year so far (but I've been so caught up in getting ready for the new GRIN update), but i'll try to do better. below is the only pic I took of the transplanting into float trays back on March 5 (trays were numbered, filled and floated the previous day). this year we had some trouble with our soil not wanting to wick up water (a long story involving Pythium and autoclaving) and thus some of our trays dried out and the germination got behind. we went back a week later and transplanted those lines that had fallen behind schedule.

20140305_090151.jpg

next year we are set to get (or make) a dibbler for the 200 cell trays because without the soil compaction, they also don't do such a great job wicking up water from the float bed in preparation for transplanting (into the float trays; not to be confused with transplanting out into the field).

it may be hard to make out from the photo, but just like last year, for my accessions we planted 10 plants of each variety in a single column, and planted entries in every other column (10 varieties to a tray). we use a two fold marking system that helps us keep track of whats been done and help to prevent errors. each pot of seedlings has two stakes (a tall and a short). when you are ready to transplant, you take the small stake out of the pot, make sure it matches the column number written on the tray and then put it in at the back. (there are usually a lot of people all working at the same time and it is beneficial to be able to easily identify pots that have been done versus those that haven't). this year the small stakes in the trays were especially useful for pulling trays back out to fill in the stragglers.
 

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It looks like you germinate a number of seeds of a particular variety in a 4" pot and when they get real leaves you are transplanting them into floaters. That's pretty much what I do but I transplant mine into 72 cell trays. Looking awesome. Thanks!
 

JessicaNicot

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I think they are actually 2 or 2.5 inch pots, but yeah, that's the basic idea.

you'd probably also be interested to know im growing up 9 varieties of rustica in the greenhouse for seed right now also. they are still a few weeks out from flowering. i'd like to rotate more rusticas the rest of the year (seeing as we have so many accessions), but they don't tend to do as well in the greenhouse during the summer as in the field. they seem to be prone to severe bouts of wilting and scald (at least the varieties with the large leaves), im guessing because we cant get them enough water...
 

BigBonner

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I made my seeders and dibble board .
Just cut a piece of plywood the size of your trays .
Turn a tray upside down on the plywood with the small holes against the plywood .
Mark each hole with a marker .
Take a 1/2 drill bit and counter sink holes in the center of each marked hole .
Take marbles and sand on side a little and then glue them in each hole .
Take two drawer handles and attach one on each end and you are done .

I also made a seeder for raw seeds that I use for seeding my raw seeds into 200 cell float trays . Time consuming but better than having to transplant each plant

For dry cells . I holed the tray down in the float bed about a inch from the top for about 15 to 20 seconds and this will most usually take care of the dry cell problems .
 

NRustica

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I made my seeders and dibble board .
Just cut a piece of plywood the size of your trays .
Turn a tray upside down on the plywood with the small holes against the plywood .
Mark each hole with a marker .
Take a 1/2 drill bit and counter sink holes in the center of each marked hole .
Take marbles and sand on side a little and then glue them in each hole .
Take two drawer handles and attach one on each end and you are done .

I also made a seeder for raw seeds that I use for seeding my raw seeds into 200 cell float trays . Time consuming but better than having to transplant each plant

For dry cells . I holed the tray down in the float bed about a inch from the top for about 15 to 20 seconds and this will most usually take care of the dry cell problems .
I'm having trouble visualizing this. You have a picture?
 

NRustica

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I think they are actually 2 or 2.5 inch pots, but yeah, that's the basic idea.

you'd probably also be interested to know im growing up 9 varieties of rustica in the greenhouse for seed right now also. they are still a few weeks out from flowering. i'd like to rotate more rusticas the rest of the year (seeing as we have so many accessions), but they don't tend to do as well in the greenhouse during the summer as in the field. they seem to be prone to severe bouts of wilting and scald (at least the varieties with the large leaves), im guessing because we cant get them enough water...

Are they brasillia? After looking as some pictures you posted on a different thread I'm thinking about getting some n. rustica var. brasillia for next year. I can't believe how big those leaves are.
 

JessicaNicot

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I made my seeders and dibble board .
Just cut a piece of plywood the size of your trays .
Turn a tray upside down on the plywood with the small holes against the plywood .
Mark each hole with a marker .
Take a 1/2 drill bit and counter sink holes in the center of each marked hole .
Take marbles and sand on side a little and then glue them in each hole .
Take two drawer handles and attach one on each end and you are done .

I also made a seeder for raw seeds that I use for seeding my raw seeds into 200 cell float trays . Time consuming but better than having to transplant each plant

For dry cells . I holed the tray down in the float bed about a inch from the top for about 15 to 20 seconds and this will most usually take care of the dry cell problems .

that's an interesting idea for a dibbler. our one for the 288 trays is a drum you roll over the trays, but I also have seen one with half marble shapes on a board (but we don't use it because its missing some of them lol). we also hold our trays down in the water (but that only helps if your soil is compacted). we don't use a vacuum seeder for the nursery because we are putting so many different lines in a single tray (10 in the 200s, 8 in the 288s) and it is too important to risk seed ending up in the wrong place.
 
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